3D printing and export
Useful things to 3D print
Short answer
The most useful 3D prints are the ones you cannot download: a replacement knob for your own appliance, a bracket sized to your own shelf, an adapter between two fittings you happen to own. Generic models are already on the internet. The value of a printer is the part that fits your specific problem, which is why describing it beats searching for it.
There are two kinds of useful print. The first is generic: a phone stand, a pen pot, a headphone hook. Thousands of those already exist on model sites and you should download them, because designing one yourself is a worse use of an evening.
The second kind is the one that pays for the printer. It is the part that fits your shelf, replaces the knob on your oven, adapts your hose to your tap. Nobody has uploaded it because nobody else has your problem. That is the gap, and it is the reason a printer is a tool rather than a novelty.
Everything below is that second kind. Each comes with a prompt you can copy, change the numbers in, and generate.
Repairs and replacements
The highest-value category by some distance. A dishwasher with a broken basket clip is otherwise a working dishwasher in a skip. Manufacturers stop making small parts long before the appliance dies, and this is exactly where no downloadable model can exist.
Measure the broken original with digital calipers, work to 0.1 mm, and remember material matters here: standard PLA softens around 60 degrees Celsius, so use PETG or ABS for anything near heat, in a car, or outdoors.
Create a cylindrical control knob 32 mm in diameter and 18 mm tall, with twelve 2 mm deep grip flutes evenly spaced around the circumference, a 6.2 mm D-shaped shaft socket 12 mm deep with a 5.4 mm flat, and a 1 mm chamfer on the top edge.
The D-shaft socket is 0.2 mm over nominal so it presses on rather than binding. Measure the flat on your own shaft.
Create a replacement appliance foot with a 30 mm diameter base, 16 mm total height, a 20 mm diameter upper post, an M6 threaded blind hole 12 mm deep from the top, and a 2 mm fillet where the post meets the base.
The base fillet is what stops it snapping off under the weight it is carrying.
Create a retaining clip 24 mm long, 10 mm wide and 3 mm thick, with two cantilever arms 12 mm long and 1.6 mm thick ending in 1.5 mm barbs, and a 4.5 mm mounting hole in the flat base.
Thin arms flex, thick arms snap. 1.6 mm is four perimeters at 0.4 mm and about right for PETG.
Workshop and organisation
Storage that matches your actual drawers rather than a standard drawer. This is where printing a set of six identical dividers, each sized to the space you have, beats buying five that nearly fit.
Create a drawer divider 280 mm long and 60 mm tall with 2.4 mm walls, a T-shaped cross section with a 40 mm wide foot, and three 20 mm wide slots cut 30 mm deep from the top edge at 70 mm intervals.
Measure your drawer interior and subtract 1 mm so it drops in without forcing.
Create a wall-mounted tool holder, 150 mm wide, 40 mm deep and 25 mm tall, with five 12 mm diameter holes spaced 28 mm apart along its length, a 4 mm thick back plate, and two 5 mm countersunk mounting holes 120 mm apart.
Countersunk holes let the screw heads sit flush against the wall.
Create a stepped pipe adapter 50 mm long, with a 25 mm outer diameter barbed spigot 20 mm long at one end, a 32 mm outer diameter socket 20 mm long with a 28.4 mm bore at the other, and a 3 mm wall thickness throughout.
Adapters between two sizes you happen to own are the classic case where no model exists to download.
Electronics and enclosures
A project box sized to your board, with the cutouts where your connectors actually are. Generic enclosures never have the port in the right place.
Create a rectangular enclosure base 95 by 65 mm external and 30 mm tall, with 2.4 mm walls and floor, four internal corner bosses 6 mm in diameter with 2.5 mm pilot holes positioned 5 mm in from each corner, a 12 by 7 mm cutout centred on one long side, and a 0.5 mm chamfer around the bottom edge.
The cutout is a USB-C panel opening. Move it to where your board actually puts the socket.
Create a hexagonal standoff 12 mm long across 6 mm flats, with a 2.5 mm pilot hole through the full length and 0.5 mm chamfers on both ends.
Chamfered ends stop the first thread burring over when the screw goes in.
Create a DIN rail mounting clip for 35 mm top hat rail, 40 mm wide and 6 mm thick, with a fixed upper hook, a 1.8 mm thick sprung lower arm, and two 4.5 mm mounting holes 25 mm apart on the flat face.
The sprung arm needs to flex, so keep it thin and print it lying flat so the layers run along the bend.
Mechanical parts
Gears, pulleys, couplers and the jigs that make a repeated job repeatable. A drilling jig used four times has already saved more than it cost to print.
Create a standard metric involute spur gear with 30 teeth, module 1.5 mm, 20 degree pressure angle, a 6.2 mm centre bore and 8 mm face width, with small root fillets.
Module and tooth count set the size. Do not also specify a diameter or the two will conflict.
Create a drilling jig 100 mm long, 30 mm wide and 12 mm thick, with a 20 mm tall locating lip along one long edge, and five 6 mm diameter guide holes on the centreline spaced 20 mm apart.
The lip registers against the workpiece edge so every hole lands in the same place.
Create a rigid shaft coupler 28 mm long and 22 mm outer diameter, with a 5.2 mm bore at one end and an 8.2 mm bore at the other, and two M3 grub screw holes per side positioned 90 degrees apart.
Both bores are 0.2 mm over nominal, which is the FDM allowance rather than the shaft size.
Home and desk
Create a monitor riser leg 120 mm long, 90 mm tall and 60 mm deep, with 3 mm walls, an open underside, a 20 mm wide cable channel through the back face, and 4 mm fillets on all outer vertical edges.
Open underneath means no wasted infill and no support material.
Create a circular drainage tray 160 mm in outer diameter and 22 mm tall, with a 3 mm wall, a 3 mm floor, a 10 mm wide flat rim, and three 4 mm tall support ribs across the floor.
The ribs hold the pot clear of standing water. Print in PETG, which handles moisture better than PLA.
What to print first
Something small, flat and useful. A cable clip or a drawer divider fails in ten minutes if it is going to fail, and teaches you more about your printer than a calibration cube does, because it has a fit you can check against the real world.
Then measure what came out. The difference between the dimension you modelled and the dimension you got is close to constant for your machine, and knowing it is what makes the next part fit first time. Design for 3D printing covers those numbers in full.
Where to go next
The gallery is the most useful page here, because every model shows the exact prompt and parameters that produced it. Browse brackets and mounts, jigs and fixtures, enclosures or fittings and adapters for the category closest to your problem. For the prompt pattern behind all of these, see CAD prompt examples.
Frequently asked questions
What are the most useful things to 3D print?
Replacement parts for things you already own, because those are the ones you cannot buy or download. After that: workshop organisation sized to your own drawers and tools, adapters between fittings that do not match, and jigs that make a repetitive job repeatable.
Where do I find models to print?
Model repositories cover anything generic well. They cannot cover the specific: the knob for your particular oven, a bracket for your particular shelf spacing. That gap is exactly where designing your own or generating one from a description pays for the printer.
What should I print first?
Something small, flat and useful, so a failure costs ten minutes rather than ten hours. A drawer divider, a cable clip or a simple bracket will teach you more about your printer's real tolerances than a calibration cube will.
Can I print replacement parts for appliances?
Often, with two caveats. Measure the original with calipers rather than estimating, and think about the material: standard PLA softens around 60 degrees Celsius, so it is wrong for anything near a heat source or left in a car. PETG or ABS handle heat better.
How accurate do I need to be when measuring a broken part?
For anything that fits into something else, use digital calipers and work to 0.1 mm. Then add clearance on top, because a hole measured at exactly 8 mm and printed at exactly 8 mm will not accept an 8 mm shaft.
Keep reading
More on 3d printing and export.
CAD prompt examples
Twelve copy and paste text to CAD prompts for brackets, plates, gears, enclosures and more, plus the pattern that makes a prompt produce an accurate model.
Design for 3D printing
The design rules that decide whether a printed part works: wall thickness in nozzle multiples, hole clearance, the 45 degree overhang rule, fits, and print orientation.
Text to CAD for 3D printing
Use text to CAD for 3D printing. Describe a part, generate an editable model, set exact dimensions, and export a printable STL file ready for your slicer.
Describe the part you actually need
Measure it, state the dimensions, and generate a model you can adjust with sliders before printing.
